The importance of the last in the Barker shoemaking process at the Earls Barton factory in Northampton (England) is unchallenged. Several of the shoemaking stages including the design, lasting and making of a pair of Barker Goodyear welted shoes are completed on a Barker last which are made by one of the only last makers remaining in the UK, Spring Line.
The word ‘last’ comes from the Old English ‘laest’ meaning footprint and is a fundamental tool used by shoemakers and cordwainers around the world. In the manufacturing of a pair of Barker shoes, the last is used from the start as it’s the anatomical foot form used to design Barker shoes.
The Barker design team led by Steve Topping champion the traditional technique of masking a last and drawing each shoe design directly onto the tape. This rarely used shoe design technique ensures the proportions are perfect for every design.
The last is as important in the manufacturing process as the design phase to give shape but equally the shoes fitting qualities derive from the last to ensure well-fitting comfortable shoes.
With the last shape having such an impact on the fitting of Barker shoes it comes as no surprise the time and dedication that goes into the process of last making and development of each Barker last to offer a style's unique fitting properties.
When comparing Barker styles made on different lasts it’s easy to differentiate a shoe designs shape and silhouette. Several of the oldest Barker last shapes such as the 10, 29 and 69 lasts offer a rounded toe shape which when compared to a Creative collection last namely the 443 last, features an elongated toe shape.
When exploring the Barker collections you may notice that several last shapes feature repeatedly, within the Country collection the 29, 460 and 464 last shapes are used to make most of the Barker Country styles. The 29 last in particular is favoured last shape by many Barker customers and is used to make the Charles, Conner, Ernest, Glencoe, Nairn and Westfield styles.
The 69, 386, 396 and 469 last shapes regularly feature in the Handcrafted, London and Professional collections whereas the Creative collection features several last shapes that are used specifically for Creative shoe designs such as the Grant, McClean and Valiant shoe styles. The 443, 446, 477 and 488 Barker last shapes rarely feature outside of the Creative collection.
One of Barker’s most recent shoe developments is the BarkerTech range which combines traditional craftsmanship and padded comfort whilst maintaining an elegant aesthetic. All BarkerTech styles feature an integrated three-part flexible insole and a removable insock to provide arch support, shock absorption and antibacterial properties. All BarkerTech styles including the Armstrong whole-cut shoe, Ellon Derby shoe and Turing Oxford brogue shoe are made on the 493 last shape.
It’s important to note that several fittings can be available for a single last shape which will result in slightly narrower/wider fitting across the Barker shoe collection. An example of this would be the Malvern Oxford dress shoe which is made on the 386 last and is available in F or G fitting. For further information visit the Barker Fitting Guide.
Explore all the Barker last shapes used in the current collection online with the help of the Barker Last Guide which highlights all last shapes used and the most popular selling lasts.